16:31 Lena: You know what I find fascinating, Miles? We've talked about all this political history, but I want to understand what Georgian culture actually looks like today. How do these ancient traditions translate into daily life?
19:47 Miles: That's such a great question, Lena. Let's start with something every visitor to Georgia experiences—the supra, that traditional Georgian feast. This isn't just a meal; it's like a theatrical performance that can last six to eight hours.
Lena: Eight hours? That seems intense! What actually happens during a supra?
Miles: Picture this: you've got a table absolutely loaded with food—khachapuri cheese bread, khinkali dumplings, mtsvadi grilled meat, and dozens of other dishes. But the real action centers around the tamada, the toastmaster. This person leads a series of elaborate toasts that follow a specific sequence.
Lena: What kind of toasts are we talking about?
Miles: It starts with toasts to God, then to the homeland, then to the dead, then to parents, then to women, then to friendship—it's this whole ritual progression. And here's the key: while the tamada is speaking, nobody else can drink. Everyone has to listen respectfully, even if the toast goes on for twenty minutes.
Lena: That sounds like it requires real social discipline. Is this something young Georgians still do?
10:24 Miles: Absolutely! And that's what's remarkable. Even young, cosmopolitan Georgians who work in tech companies or study abroad will still participate in traditional supras. They might add modern elements—toasting to career success or environmental protection—but the basic structure remains unchanged.
Lena: What about Georgian music? You mentioned polyphonic singing earlier.
Miles: Georgian polyphony is incredible, Lena. It's not like Western harmony where you have a melody with supporting chords. In Georgian singing, you have three completely independent vocal lines weaving together in these complex patterns that create dissonances and resolutions unlike anything else in world music.
Lena: Is this something you'd hear in everyday life, or is it more like a museum piece?
Miles: That's what's amazing—it's still very much alive! Georgian men will break into polyphonic song at the end of a supra, or during religious festivals, or even just hanging out together. There are professional ensembles like the Rustavi Choir that tour internationally, but it's also something ordinary people do.
Lena: What about Georgian women? Are they part of these traditions too?
Miles: Traditionally, Georgian polyphony was male-dominated, but that's changing. Women have always been central to other aspects of Georgian culture—they're often the keepers of family traditions, recipes, and religious practices. And in modern Georgia, women are increasingly prominent in politics, business, and the arts.
Lena: Speaking of religion, how important is the Georgian Orthodox Church today?
Miles: The Church is hugely influential. About 80% of Georgians identify as Orthodox, and the Church played a crucial role in preserving Georgian identity during Soviet times. The current Patriarch, Ilia II, is probably the most respected figure in the country—more popular than any politician.
Lena: Does that create tensions in a country that's trying to integrate with Europe?
Miles: Sometimes, yes. The Church tends to be socially conservative on issues like LGBTQ rights, which puts it at odds with EU values. But most Georgians see their Orthodox faith as part of what makes them distinctively Georgian, not as something that separates them from Europe.
Lena: What about Georgian hospitality? Is that still a real thing, or is it more of a tourist marketing slogan?
Miles: Oh, it's absolutely real! Georgians have this saying: "A guest is a gift from God." If you're invited to someone's home, you'll be treated like royalty. They'll bring out their best wine, prepare elaborate meals, and genuinely want to know about your life and your country.
Lena: That sounds wonderful, but also like it could be overwhelming for visitors who aren't used to that level of attention.
0:51 Miles: Exactly! Some Western visitors find it almost uncomfortable because it's so generous. But for Georgians, hospitality isn't just politeness—it's a moral obligation. Refusing someone's hospitality is considered deeply insulting.
Lena: How do these traditions survive in modern Tbilisi, which I imagine is becoming more international?
Miles: Tbilisi is fascinating because it's simultaneously very traditional and very cosmopolitan. You'll find hipster coffee shops next to traditional bakeries, modern art galleries in medieval neighborhoods, and young entrepreneurs who still live with their extended families.
Lena: So it's not like these traditions are disappearing as Georgia modernizes?
Miles: Not at all. If anything, globalization has made Georgians more conscious of what makes their culture unique. They're proud that their wine-making techniques are 8,000 years old, that their alphabet is completely original, that their music sounds like nothing else in the world. These aren't burdens from the past—they're competitive advantages in the modern world.