第 1 章
The Precious Power of Desire
What makes a diamond worth a fortune? Why do we covet pearls? How did a single necklace help topple the French monarchy? In Aja Raden's captivating exploration "Stoned," we discover that jewelry isn't merely decorative-it's transformative, capable of shaping human history through our relentless desire to possess beauty. As a former head designer at Tacori and trained physicist, Raden uniquely bridges the worlds of gemology and human psychology, revealing how our obsession with shiny objects has launched empires, sparked revolutions, and fundamentally altered our economic systems. The book has become required reading for luxury brand executives and psychology professors alike, with Vogue calling it "a diamond-sharp history of how desire shapes our world." Through dazzling historical narratives, Raden demonstrates that jewelry's true power lies not in its physical properties but in our minds-where beauty triggers the same neurological pathways as addiction, making us literally reach out for what glitters.
第 2 章
The Manufactured Magic of Diamonds
Diamonds are essentially worthless stones whose value exists primarily in consumers' minds. Before the South African diamond rush 150 years ago, diamonds were genuinely rare, with world production amounting to just a few pounds yearly from Indian and Brazilian riverbeds. Everything changed in 1870 when young Erasmus Jacobs found a massive crystal in South Africa's Orange River, triggering a rush that produced diamonds by the metric ton.
Cecil Rhodes, a failed cotton farmer with imperial ambitions, founded De Beers after renting equipment to miners and gradually buying up claims. The diamond market collapsed in 1882 after South African mines began producing one million carats annually-five times more than the rest of the world combined. Rhodes devised a brilliant solution: creating a cartel that regulated diamond flow into the market, maintaining the illusion of scarcity. By 1890, De Beers owned all South African diamond mines and artificially slashed production by one-third in 1891.
This strategy worked until the diamond panic of 1908, when prices fell as people prepared for war and luxury purchases declined. Making matters worse, Ernest Oppenheimer discovered the massive Cullinan Mine in 1902, which would produce more diamonds than all De Beers mines combined. By World War I's end, Oppenheimer had taken over as chairman, consolidating 90% of global diamond interests under one vision: creating a product that would never lose value by making diamonds artificially scarce.
Diamonds are simply compressed carbon-the same element found in coal and pencil lead. Despite their brilliance, they're actually common: carbon is the fourth most abundant element in the universe. The GIA estimates 4.5 billion carats have been mined since 1870-enough for every person on Earth to have a half-carat ring with a billion carats left over. Far from being rare eternal treasures, diamonds are unstable, common stones that De Beers has masterfully marketed as precious.
By the 1930s, De Beers faced a new crisis: the Great Depression and looming Second World War had people not only stopping diamond purchases but attempting to sell their own stones. This threatened to expose the uncomfortable truth that diamonds have terrible resale value. De Beers needed more than control over supply-they needed emotional control. They needed to make diamonds seem necessary, not just desirable.
Dorothy Dignam and Frances Gerety, two women at N.W. Ayer advertising agency, engineered the diamond engagement ring phenomenon that now adorns 80-90% of American brides' fingers. Gerety created the iconic "A diamond is forever" slogan in 1947-later named slogan of the century-while Dignam pioneered modern product placement by lending diamonds to celebrities and arranging for diamonds in movie titles and scenes. Neither woman ever married, dedicating their careers to creating the century's greatest romantic myth while revolutionizing modern advertising.
第 3 章
The Green Seduction of Emeralds
Long before diamonds captivated the world, emeralds were the ultimate currency of wealth and power across civilizations. For millennia, from ancient Egypt to Napoleonic France, these verdant gems symbolized divine connection and imperial might. Cleopatra masterfully wielded emeralds as psychological weapons, using them both as nationalistic symbols and intimidating displays of wealth that suggested military might. After conquering Egypt, Augustus seized these emerald mines to fund the Pax Romana-two centuries of unprecedented peace and expansion.
Emeralds became synonymous with wealth partly due to their color psychology. Just as red triggers sexual associations in men, green produces measurable physiological effects-dilating blood vessels, slowing pulse rates, and lowering blood pressure. Our evolutionary biology links green with natural abundance and springtime fertility, creating deep associations with food, plenty, and ultimately wealth. Moreover, human eyes have evolved to perceive green more vividly than other colors, with cone cells most sensitive to green light wavelengths-we're literally designed to notice and seek out green.
What makes emeralds extraordinary is that they shouldn't exist at all-beryllium and chromium are both extremely rare elements found in completely different parts of Earth's crust. Emeralds only form during orogenesis-when continental plates collide with such force that mountains form, allowing superheated water containing dissolved chromium to percolate through chambers containing beryl crystals. This geological miracle has happened only a few times in Earth's 4.54 billion-year history.
The Spanish Empire's story is fundamentally about money-its acquisition and disappearance through rapid boom-and-bust cycles. When Columbus returned from his first voyage with only human and vegetable cargo instead of Asian treasures, Spain's disappointment was palpable. Their solution was pure PR: fabricate stories of boundless wealth to attract more explorers. The legend of El Dorado evolved into myths of entire golden empires. These deliberate fabrications served to lure fortune hunters into exploring the continent.
According to El Inca's Royal Commentaries, the valley of Manta housed a massive emerald "almost as large as an ostrich's egg" that local inhabitants worshipped as a living goddess. The temple priests taught that all emeralds were the great emerald's daughters, and pilgrims brought smaller emeralds as offerings. This religious practice resulted in an enormous collection of emeralds that attracted Spanish conquistadors. While the Inca readily surrendered gold and silver-which they believed were merely "the sweat of the sun and moon"-they fiercely protected their emeralds, which they considered alive and divine.
Spain opened the great emerald mines of Colombia in the mid-1500s, extracting emeralds of unprecedented quality and quantity-"half a million carats at a time." This wealth made Spain the world's only superpower throughout the sixteenth century. But within less than a century, the emerald market crashed from oversaturation, with stones that once formed part of the crown jewels suddenly worth less than their gold settings. This market saturation, combined with chronic deficit spending on religious wars, collapsed the Spanish Empire as rapidly as it had risen.
第 4 章
The Necklace That Toppled a Queen
Marie Antoinette, though remembered as the ultimate symbol of Versailles excess, was ironically not even French but Austrian. Born in 1755 to the powerful Habsburg Empress Maria Teresa, she was considered the prettiest but least impressive of the empress's sixteen children. When her older sister died suddenly of smallpox, fourteen-year-old Marie Antoinette was sent to France in 1770 to marry the equally hesitant and underage Louis XVI, thereby cementing a political alliance between traditional enemies.
At Versailles, Marie Antoinette encountered a culture obsessed with appearances, where social importance was measured by hair height and jewel size. The entire court functioned like reality theater-Marie Antoinette dressed before dozens of spectators each morning, ate meals facing galleries of onlookers, and complained of never having a moment alone. With no real political power and trapped in a humiliating, sexless marriage, fifteen-year-old Marie Antoinette rebelled like any unsupervised teenager with unlimited credit would: she partied nonstop.
The infamous diamond necklace affair began with jewelers Boehmer and Bassenge left holding an unpaid 2,800-carat creation commissioned by Louis XV for his mistress before his death. When Marie Antoinette repeatedly refused to purchase this monstrosity, con artist Jeanne de Saint-Remy, Comtesse de la Motte, saw opportunity. She targeted Cardinal de Rohan-a vain, wealthy aristocrat desperate to regain favor with the queen after earlier insults.
La Motte's elaborate con reached its climax when she convinced Cardinal Rohan that Marie Antoinette wanted him to secretly purchase an enormous diamond necklace on her behalf. The jewelers, nearly bankrupt, were thrilled to finally sell the piece. Rohan obtained the necklace and handed it to the "queen's valet"-actually la Motte's accomplice Villette-who promptly disappeared with it. La Motte and Villette removed the stones and sold them abroad, making a fortune. The deception was discovered when the jewelers demanded payment, leading to a public scandal that became less about the theft and more about the queen's character.
When the scandal broke, King Louis XVI had Cardinal Rohan publicly arrested during a crowded church service, creating a spectacle. The ensuing trial became a public circus featuring a disgraced cardinal, allegations against the queen, sex scandals, and massive jewels. Though Marie Antoinette was blameless, the French public largely believed she had slept with Rohan, embezzled money, and either stolen or plotted to steal the necklace. The tabloids became obsessed with the affair, publishing increasingly pornographic cartoons and vicious rumors about the queen.
The infamous necklace that hastened the French monarchy's downfall was less a traditional necklace and more a diamond-encrusted garment. Weighing 2,800 carats with 647 individual diamonds totaling nearly a pound and a half, it featured a loose diamond choker with three garland-like rows of diamonds hanging beneath. From there, it draped front and back from throat to waist in wide diamond ribbons, adorned with clusters, bows, and enormous drop stones, terminating in diamond tassels at the waist and elbows.
On July 14, 1789, Parisians stormed the Bastille prison, symbolically overthrowing the government's absolute authority. Within a week, press censorship ended, unleashing increasingly violent and pornographic stories about the queen. Two weeks later, seven thousand women marched to Versailles, killed guards and aristocrats, and searched for the queen, repeatedly stabbing her bed after she narrowly escaped. The revolutionary government pardoned Jeanne de la Motte as a heroine while Marie Antoinette became France's scapegoat, deliberately targeted "to bind the French together in a kind of blood bond" despite having committed no actual crimes.
第 5 章
The Pearl That Changed the World Map
La Peregrina, one of history's most famous pearls, is a perfectly pear-shaped natural white pearl of enormous size-approximately 200 grains (10 grams). Found in the mid-sixteenth century off Panama's coast, it was given to the Spanish king Philip II, who sent it as a betrothal gift to England's Queen Mary I. While recently famous as Elizabeth Taylor's possession (a Valentine's gift from Richard Burton in 1969), it was the first Queen Elizabeth's devotion to this pearl that would ultimately change the world map.
In 1560, Elizabeth I began coveting La Peregrina, the magnificent pearl her sister Mary had willed back to Philip II rather than let Elizabeth inherit it. When Philip proposed to Elizabeth after Mary's death, she refused him, and he denied her the pearl. This sparked Elizabeth's policy of turning a blind eye to English sailors plundering Spanish ships, specifically ordering them to seize pearls in search of one like La Peregrina.
The hatred between England and Spain traced back to Henry VIII's break with the Catholic Church. Spain was insulted when Henry discarded Catherine of Aragon and declared their half-Spanish daughter Mary illegitimate, but was outraged when he seized Church lands and declared himself head of the English church. Mary temporarily healed this rift by restoring Catholicism and marrying Philip, but her death and Elizabeth's ascension-along with Elizabeth's public rejection of Philip's marriage proposal-reignited tensions.
Though Mary bitterly left the throne to Elizabeth to prevent civil war, she spitefully mandated in her will that Philip should have back all the jewels he gave her-including La Peregrina, the pearl Elizabeth coveted. This decision would prove a grave miscalculation.
Elizabeth transformed herself into a living religious icon through her strategic use of pearls, which symbolized purity, divinity, and marriage across cultures. As the unmarried "Virgin Queen," she covered herself in pounds of pearls and wore white face paint to project virginal purity. She deliberately acquired numerous jewels resembling Mary's lost pearl brooch, displaying England's wealth to rival Spain's.
When Elizabeth inherited England's throne, she found a nation in religious turmoil, facing military threats, and financially ruined after Philip had depleted the treasury. Her solution was to employ privateers-essentially pirates with government authorization-to attack Spanish vessels even during times of nominal peace. She took a one-third cut of all plunder (more than Spain's royal fifth), while maintaining plausible deniability when Spain protested.
Philip finally launched his Empresa de Inglaterra (Enterprise of England), building the largest fleet of warships ever assembled. The plan was to transport tens of thousands of troops to invade England, overthrow Elizabeth, end English piracy, isolate Protestant Netherlands, and restore Catholicism. Elizabeth, through her network of spies and pirates, discovered the plan early. She dispatched Sir Francis Drake on a preemptive strike against the shipyards at Cadiz, where he successfully "singed the king of Spain's beard" by destroying the first Armada before it could sail.
When the Spanish Armada broke formation to flee the burning ships launched by the English, the English navy exploited their final advantage-maneuverability. While the giant Spanish ships could only move forward, the English vessels could sail in any direction, allowing them to attack from all sides. Half the Spanish fleet was destroyed, with approximately twenty thousand men lost, while England lost no men in battle. This defeat shattered Philip's confidence while establishing England as a major world power, opening the door for global expansion. Though Elizabeth never obtained La Peregrina, she gained something far greater-the foundation for the British Empire.
第 6 章
The Eggs That Witnessed Revolution
In 1883, as Alexander III prepared for his coronation following the assassination of his father, the royal couple received numerous jeweled Easter eggs as gifts. Inside one particularly beautiful egg, the tsarina discovered a macabre surprise: a silver dagger and two ivory skulls representing the royal couple, accompanied by a threatening note from Russian Nihilists. Despite these threats, the coronation proceeded without incident, and the Romanov dynasty continued its reign of unparalleled luxury and excess.
The Romanov court displayed unmatched opulence that made other European royal houses seem modest by comparison. Their Eastern-influenced aesthetic demanded only the largest, most vivid gems. The imperial wedding dress was crafted from silver and gold, requiring several people to carry it. Tsarina Maria Feodorovna wore jewels so massive that witnesses claimed they would appear fake in any other context. This extravagance wasn't merely competitive display among royalty but resulted from isolation-the Romanovs had so little contact with common people that no one could object to their behavior or provide perspective.
Carl Faberge revolutionized jewelry making, elevating it to an art form while creating a remarkably modern business model. The son of a jeweler who took over his father's St. Petersburg shop in 1882, Faberge valued artistic innovation over mere gemstone value. His company produced everything from the famous eggs to cigarette cases, becoming the premier gift source in Russia. His technical innovations were extraordinary-producing over 150 enamel shades when competitors managed just a few, creating multiple colors of gold including blue, and developing guilloche enamel techniques that remain unreproducible today.
While Faberge's imperial Easter eggs are remembered for their extravagance, their true value lies in their unparalleled craftsmanship. Each of the fifty-two eggs featured a unique theme and contained an impressive jeweled surprise. When the Bolshevik Revolution erupted and Lenin encouraged the masses to "loot the looters," most aristocratic treasures were destroyed or disassembled. The imperial eggs, however, were specifically saved by Lenin himself-because the Russian Revolution was largely financed by the overextended German government during World War I.
The Coronation Egg, created in 1897, marked both Faberge's artistic ascendance and the beginning of the end for the Romanovs. This massive golden egg, covered in yellow enamel and diamond-chested eagles, contained an exact replica of Tsarina Alexandra's coronation carriage. Tragically, Nicholas and Alexandra's coronation festivities were marred by the Khodynka Meadow disaster, where thousands of commoners were crushed to death rushing for commemorative cups. Rather than canceling the evening's French Embassy ball out of respect, Nicholas attended and "danced while the wounded died."
The Steel Military Egg, the last complete imperial Easter egg, marked a stark departure from previous designs. Made of blackened steel with minimal decoration and four gilt emblems, it rested on artillery shells atop a dark green jade base. Meanwhile, Russia was collapsing. After Archduke Franz Ferdinand's assassination triggered World War I, Russia's 4.5 million troops proved no match for Germany's modern warfare. Nicholas's decision to appoint himself Supreme Commander only accelerated the disaster.
By 1917, Russia was starving. On February 23, International Women's Day, thousands of women flooded the streets demanding bread. Within days, 200,000 striking workers joined them, pelting police with ice and rocks. As middle-class citizens joined the uprising, demands shifted from bread to political change. When troops were ordered to fire on protesters, killing hundreds, many soldiers switched sides instead. Nicholas, away playing commander and dismissing warnings as "nonsense," finally grasped the situation too late. By March 3, he was forced to abdicate for himself and his son.
The "Russian Revolution" was neither Russian nor truly revolutionary-it was engineered by Germany, who smuggled Lenin back to Russia "like a plague bacillus" to destabilize the country and force its withdrawal from World War I. The German foreign minister personally arranged Lenin's passage in a sealed train with diplomatic protection, funding his subversive activities even after his return.
第 7 章
The Pearl King Who Saved Japan
Kokichi Mikimoto, born in 1858 to a poor noodle maker in Toba, became fascinated with pearls despite his impoverished circumstances. As the primary breadwinner from age eleven, he worked tirelessly selling vegetables and noodles while dreaming of farming pearls. After marrying Ume, a samurai's daughter who supported his vision, Mikimoto began experimenting with pearl cultivation. Following years of failures, including a devastating red tide that killed 5,000 oysters, it was Ume who discovered their first five successful half-round cultured pearls in 1893.
After perfecting his pearl cultivation technique, Mikimoto revolutionized the industry by developing large-scale pearl farming. He had Ama divers search for wild akoya oysters, selectively breeding them for optimal characteristics, then seeded them and placed them in baskets hanging from floating rafts along his island's coast. By 1916, he received a patent for spherical cultured pearls, and by the 1920s was exporting massive crops globally. His cultured pearls became the first industrial products incubated in a live host-the beginning of biotech-with even subpar specimens being repurposed for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.
When Perry's "Black Ships" appeared on July 8, 1853, Japan had missed centuries of world events-from Spain's collapse to the Industrial Revolution. Villagers in Uraga first saw terrifying black smoke on the horizon, sending fishing boats scrambling for shore as people fled in panic, some shouting about "giant dragons" or "alien ships of fire." Four enormous iron ships approached, burning coal, billowing smoke, glowing from portholes, and bristling with weapons.
After the West's intrusion, Japan underwent a radical transformation. The Tokugawa shogunate was overthrown, ostensibly restoring power to Emperor Meiji (though he was only fourteen). The Meiji Restoration (1868-1912) represented history's most rapid and comprehensive modernization, as Japan ruthlessly abandoned centuries of tradition to catch up with the West. The feudal system was dismantled, allowing social mobility that enabled peasant-born Kokichi Mikimoto to marry a samurai's daughter and become the "Pearl King."
K. Mikimoto & Co. became the first jewelry store ever to focus solely on pearls-no one else had enough pearls to fill an entire store. Beyond just selling pearls, Mikimoto wanted to establish an image that would convince the world his cultured pearls were genuine gems. In 1919, he opened branches worldwide from Tokyo to London, Paris, New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles.
When pearl dealers worldwide saw Mikimoto's flawless spherical pearls, they panicked. For millennia, the pearl industry had thrived on the perception that perfection was unattainable. Mikimoto's pearls were not only perfect but abundant-by 1938, approximately 350 pearl farms in Japan produced ten million cultured pearls annually, compared to just hundreds of natural pearls found globally each year.
The pearl market crash of 1930 devastated the jewelry business, with prices dropping by 85 percent in one day. The European pearl syndicate sued Kokichi Mikimoto, claiming his pearls were fraudulent. Mikimoto fought back with science, enlisting Professor Henry Lyster Jameson of Oxford and former Stanford University President David Starr Jordan, who concluded that cultured pearls were "of exactly the same substance and color as the natural pearl" and should have the same value.
Mikimoto's solution to market resistance was the Taisho-ren, "the Boss's String." This strand of forty-nine perfectly matched pearls, the largest 14.5 millimeters, took over a decade to assemble even with millions of pearls to choose from. In a world where natural pearls averaged 2 millimeters, the Taisho-ren was unprecedented. Crucially, Mikimoto refused to sell it despite numerous offers. By creating something perfect yet unobtainable, he reestablished the concept of aspiration in the pearl market while making his name synonymous with perfection.
第 8 章
The Watch That Transformed Modern Warfare
Timepieces represent a paradox in jewelry-mass-produced objects valued for status, decorative yet functional, associated with both leisure and industry. Wristwatches, remarkably, are only about a century old, beginning when Countess Koscowicz commissioned Patek Philippe to create the first "wristlet" in 1868-a diamond bracelet with a hidden clock. Initially popular among wealthy women as status symbols, wristwatches transformed during World War I into essential military equipment, allowing soldiers to coordinate timing while keeping both hands free.
From civilization's dawn to the atomic clock, our lives have been governed by time. Initially, humans tracked only birth-to-death cycles and natural rhythms-the sun and moon dictated when to sleep, rise, reap and sow. The earliest timekeepers were sundials, dating back to 15,000 BCE Egypt, which used shadows cast by a gnomon to track daylight hours. As humans moved from fields to cities, mechanical clocks emerged. Initially massive and inaccurate, they belonged to churches and governments who controlled time through bells and public clocks.
The earliest proto-pocket watches emerged in the fifteenth century-large, barrel-shaped devices that kept terrible time, losing several hours daily. Despite their questionable utility, their scarcity made them immediate displays of wealth and privilege among the elite. By the sixteenth century, wealthy Europeans demanded increasingly complicated designs in whimsical shapes-stars, crosses, flowers, animals, even skulls.
With wristlets, smaller meant more expensive and therefore more desirable. While the miniaturized clocks excited imaginations, few believed they could actually keep time. Men found the idea of wearing a watch on the wrist absurd, influenced by the history of non-functioning display watches and perceived technical limitations. The watch industry was hostile to wristlets, seeing them as a passing feminine fancy.
The Anglo-Boer Wars (1880-1902) marked the first significant military adoption of wristwatches. These conflicts pitted British imperial forces against Dutch-descended Voortrekkers who had established independent republics in South Africa after leaving British Cape Colony over political grievances. British soldiers improvised by strapping pocket watches to their wrists with leather bands, allowing synchronized attacks that contributed significantly to their victory. This battlefield success made wristwatches respectable for men, prompting watch manufacturers to begin marketing "service watches" with military testimonials.
The wristwatch proved to be one of the most critical technologies of modern warfare. While not as imposing as other weapons, accurate time coordination among thousands of soldiers was essential for the new mechanized combat. Pilots needed precise timekeeping to calculate position, speed, and altitude for bombing runs without modern navigation systems. Infantry equipped with machine guns required silent coordination that traditional signaling methods couldn't provide. By war's end, the wristwatch had become the lynchpin that enabled effective use of twentieth-century military technology.
When soldiers returned home after the Great War, they brought their military-issue "trench watches" with them. What had once been a feminine accessory became a badge of masculinity and bravery. By 1917, the British Horological Journal observed that wristwatches were "seen on the wrist of nearly every man in uniform and of many men in civilian attire." Within a decade, wristwatches would outnumber pocket watches fifty to one.
The explosive demand for wristwatches drove rapid innovation. These innovations paralleled and supported the broader technological revolutions stemming from World War I. When Swatch introduced plastic watches in 1983, production costs plummeted, making timepieces universally affordable. For the first time in human history, everyone could own a watch. This democratization of timekeeping revolutionized society. Throughout history, whoever controlled time-through church bells, factory whistles, or public clocks-controlled people's lives. When watches became universally available, time was privatized.
第 9 章
The Enduring Power of Desire
In 1977, African dictator Jean-Bedel Bokassa, self-declared emperor of the unrecognized Central African Empire, sought crown jewels to legitimize his reign. He demanded a state ring with a diamond "no smaller than a golf ball" from Albert Jolis of Diamond Distributors. Unable to afford such extravagance, Jolis ingeniously carved a chunk of worthless industrial black diamond into Africa's shape, embedding one small perfect white diamond at the location of Bokassa's country. Though worth only about $5,000, Jolis presented it as a $25 million treasure. The dictator, believing in its immense value, proudly displayed it and even took only this "priceless" ring when later exiled. As Jolis remarked, it remained "priceless" only as long as Bokassa never tried to sell it.
This illustrates the book's central thesis: jewels gain their true power not from physical properties but from human perception. Whether formed in earth's depths like diamonds, through geological collisions like emeralds, as biological waste like pearls, or through human ingenuity like timepieces-their importance comes from our minds. Though they've changed the world repeatedly, jewels possess just one real power: to reflect our desires back to us and show us who we truly are.
